One thing that will always stymie the re-enactor is the
difference in finishing fabrics between 'now' and 'then'. Since the last quarter
of the 1800s, fleece wool has been treated to a carbonization process to get rid
of the plant debris. This involves dipping in acid. The surface of the wool
fiber is affected as well as the plant material and the care and timing of the
process determines how much it is affected.
(You can get yarn, and I think fabric, too, that hasn't
been carbonized at special stores on the internet. I think you must search for
'natural wool'. )
Another thing that is a real pain is that fabrics
weaves go out of style and come back with a different name. Or the same name is
stuck on a different fabric. So the bengaline of yesteryear (silk warp,
wool weft) has become a pure silk fabric today. The linen/wool fabric today is
more likely to have the linen and wool blended together in one thread than to
have the pure linen warp and pure woolen weft.
The fibers have all been cut to 'machine manageable' lengths so there are no
long fiber worsteds comparable to those of the hand-spun industry. sigh.
That's not all but I think I'll save that for an information page later...when I
get "a round toit".
I've done my best with the colors but it appears that
there are colors seen by the eye that don't exist in reality. sigh.
All fabric is 100% wool unless otherwise labeled.
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PLEASE CLICK ON THE PICTURES
to enlarge and see the textures and colors better |
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#1131
62" wool/lycra tabby in a gauze weight.
This is probably about a 95% wool/4-5% lycra blend. I say that based on the
stretch when I handle it. If only it didn't have the lycra I'd say it would
be perfect for any woolen veiling at any time period. And if you don't let
anyone close enough to pull it, it definitely passes the 10 foot rule. Heck,
it would pass a 2 foot rule. Think widow's veil.
Black
$12.00/yd |
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#1106
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed a couple years ago.
A beautiful wool. I haven't washed a piece in cold water yet but check
the shrinkage rates of the other Carleton woolens and you can get an idea.
Camel
$13.45/yd |
#1039B
60" 100%
worsted wool
very fine twill satin-weave .....almost a sateen or satinette
(I keep seeing this as a waistcoat...)
brown and off-white stripe
$10.00/yd |
#1050
59" Alpaca
thick, plush and wonderfully soft!
This
fulls in hot water and agitation (approximately 31% shrinkage in the warp and 23% in
the weft.) so dry cleaning is the best idea. (the fulled wool makes wonderful
slippers and insoles ;-)
MINT on one side, PALE MINT on other side
$18.00/yd |
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#1108
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed a couple years ago.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to
dry it had 7% shrinkage in the warp and 6% in the weft. This could be from
the way I hung it to dry.
Navy
$13.45/yd |
#1107
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed a couple years ago.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to
dry it had 1% shrinkage in the warp and 4% in the weft. This could be from
the way I hung it to dry.
Black
$13.45/yd |
#1140
60" 100% woolen
Fabulous heavy twill! A coating like the old-fashioned ones I remember. Not
a melton with brushed smooth surface but a coating stlll showing the heavy
twill. I call this a saffron but my jobber says its
Goldenrod Yellow
$14.50/yd |
#1145
60" 80% wool, 20%nylon
A lovely Melton cloth coating...light to medium weight...with the lovely
smooth silky surface of a Melton cloth.
Royal Blue
$14.50/yd
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#1146
60" 100% wool
Smooth, fine twill weave suiting...a light weight with one very slightly
brushed surface and one smooth, silky surface. The picture is very close to
the right color!
Wine
$13.45/yd |
#1066
60" 100% wool
fine satin-weave twill suiting.
almost a sateen finish, I'd venture a guess that this could be Venetian
Cloth.
lovely browns with a gray tone
$8.00/yd
about 4 yards left |
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#1169
60" Imported Shetland wool from Uruguay. 100% wool.
A beautiful soft, cushy, fluffy, cuddle-up and feel pampered, type of
woolen.
Underneath the thick nap I think its a tabby weave.
This is made of unbleached, undyed Shetland wool in shades of dark off-white
and light brown. I guess you might call it
oatmeal.
I only got 8 yards of this one....
$21.50/yd
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#1095
58" 90% wool, 10% nylon
a very nice coating with a lovely hand. Twill weave is visible on one side
while other is a lush fulled surface. Makes great cartridge pleats!
(shrinkage with HOT water about 4% weft, 10% warp) when preshrunk makes a
great Florentine beretto!
deeper Red with a cool blue tone.
$15.00/yd
only about 1 3/4 yards left |
#1109
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed a couple years ago.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to
dry it had 6% shrinkage in the warp and 11% in the weft. This could be
from the way I hung it.
Cranberry
(this picture is washed out...should be a bit warmer)
$13.45/yd
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#1133
60" 100% wool coating
from Uruguay, this is a very nice wool with a great color. Fuzzy and thick.
Candy Apple Red
$14.50/yd |
#1134
60" 100% wool coating
from Uruguay. This is a fuzzy and soft
coating wool that is so pet-able!
Black
$15.00/yd
only about 5 1/2 yards left |
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#1135
60" 100% wool coating
From Uruguay, this is another nice coating in a nice color....
Ruby (but not a bright ruby)
$14.50/yd |
#1136
60" 100% wool coating
This coating is a bit lighter than the others I got this year....not thin,
just a bit lighter. As most of the others, a twill with one side lightly
brushed.
I call it
Frosty Berry
because it looks like a ripe raspberry fresh off the bush.
$14.50/yd |
#1048
58" 100% wool twill plaid
about 10 oz.
black and cream with a white rail
$11.00/yd |
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#1122
59" 100% woolen coating
HEAVY, thick, dense, WONDERFUL! The face of this woolen has a nap that
has been calendared flat; the reverse is a twill that looks like whip cord.
It could keep you warm in a blizzard! The color is a tweedy Charcoal gray
$15.25/yd
about 2 yards left |
#1170
60" Imported Shetland wool from Uruguay. 100% wool.
A beautiful soft, cushy, fluffy, cuddle-up and feel pampered, type of
woolen.
This one is softer, drape-ier, and more cuddly than #1169 (above) with a bit
looser weave, and you can see the twill weave structure on the backside.
All I can think of is one of those soft, unstructured wraps or soft drape
coats like a big oversized cardigan. LUSCIOUS!
This is made of unbleached, undyed Shetland wool in shades of dark off-white
and light brown. I guess you might call it
oatmeal.
I got 15 yards of this....
$21.50/yd.
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#1137
60" 100% wool coating
Another nice medium coating from Uruguay. A little bit darker than the Plum
#1142, and a little bit thicker, and a little bit more "plush".
If you want to 'cold wash' and 'hang dry' this woolen it will probably
shrink about 14-15%.
Dark Plum $15.00/yd
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#1171
60" 100% woolen
from Uruguay. A medium weight herringbone twill woolen.
Very nice drape and a flexible woolen.
Lovely color...blue-grey warp and a black weft that looks a bit
tweedy. It looks like
dark charcoal with a subtle blue tone.
I only got 10-12 yards of this....
$21.50/yd. |
#1138
60" 100% woolen coating
A luscious fuzzy, and squishable, soft coating woolen from Uruguay.
Sky Blue
$15.00/yd |
#1085
59" 100% wool
Imported Italian wool suiting
a beautiful piece with a light gray satin weave on one side and a darker
gray twill on the other
(from a very exclusive men's suiting company, my jobber said) Gorgeous!
light gray
$10.70/yd |
#1139
100% wool coating
a very nice medium weight woolen coating from Uruguay.
I did a gentle cold wash, hang dry on this wool and the shrinkage was about
6%. (your results, of course, will vary according to gentleness, water temp,
how you shake it out before drying, etc, etc, etc.
Corn Silk Tan
$14.50/yd |
#1061
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra, tropical weight
tabby weave suiting
tan
$8.00/yd |
#1064
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave tropical weight suiting
mixed grays
$8.00/yd |
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#110
60" 100% wool worsted tabby
a superfine suiting from a top men's suiting company. Understated woven
checks in charcoal grays.
$7.00/yd
about 6 yards left |
#1062
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave suiting
cold chocolate milk
brown
$8.00/yd approx. 7 yards left |
#1063
60" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave summer suiting
dark charcoal with a bit of blue tint
$8.00/yd
about 2 yards left |
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#1148
60" 100% worsted wool
a really nice twill suiting, very fine and summer weight.
Maize
$13.75/yd |
#1149
60" 100% worsted wool
a really nice twill suiting, very fine and summer weight.
Poppy
$13.75/yd |
#1150
60" 100% worsted wool
a really nice twill suiting, very fine and summer weight.Cocoa
$13.75/yd |
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#1151
60" 100% worsted wool
a really nice twill suiting, fine and lovely color and hand.
Hunter Green
$13.75 |
#1073
59" 100% wool twill , lightly brushed
deep blue
hot wash shrinkage: 4% warp;
9% weft
$9.50/yd approx. 2 1/2 yd left |
#1152
60" 100% worsted wool, light-weight gabardine (twill shows only on one side)
This is a light gabardine that has a lovely feel and makes such nice suits!
Straw Gold
$13.75/yd
At this point I'm running out of spaces to fill in and 'Oomph' to fill them.
How about if I just list them here until I get the chance to take pictures
of them?
#1153..... Dark Red
#1154.... Slate Green
#1155.... Blue Aqua
#1156.... Navy
#1157.... Sage
#1158.... Taupe
#1159....Cinnamon
#1164.... Dark Chocolate
all are $13.75/yd |
#1160
60" 100% worsted wool
this is a light-weight flannel that has the worsted wool feel, a little
brushed/flannel feel that gives it more body than a light gabardine or
summer suiting.
Just the weight for a spring or fall lightweight gown or promenade ensemble
(or dress, as the millennium suits you ;) Excellent for a fall tunic (or
suit jacket....) when there's just a bit of nip in the air.
Storm Blue (light grey-blue)
$13.75/yd |
#1161
60" 100% worsted wool
this is a light-weight flannel that has the worsted wool feel, a little
brushed/flannel feel that gives it more body than a light gabardine or
summer suiting.
Just the weight for a spring or fall lightweight gown or promenade ensemble
(or dress, as the millennium suits you ;) Excellent for a fall tunic (or
suit jacket....) when there's just a bit of nip in the air.
Navy blue
$13.75/yd |
#1162
60" 100% worsted wool
this is a light-weight flannel that has the worsted wool feel, a little
brushed/flannel feel that gives it more body than a light gabardine or
summer suiting.
Just the weight for a spring or fall lightweight gown or promenade ensemble
(or dress, as the millennium suits you ;) Excellent for a fall tunic (or
suit jacket....) when there's just a bit of nip in the air.
Hunter Green
$13.75/yd |
#1163
60" 100% worsted wool
this is a light-weight flannel that has the worsted wool feel, a little
brushed/flannel feel that gives it more body than a light gabardine or
summer suiting.
Just the weight for a spring or fall lightweight gown or promenade ensemble
(or dress, as the millennium suits you ;) Excellent for a fall tunic (or
suit jacket....) when there's just a bit of nip in the air.
Plum
$13.75/yd |
#1165
60" 100% worsted wool
this is a light-weight flannel that has the worsted wool feel, a little
brushed/flannel feel that gives it more body than a light gabardine or
summer suiting.
Just the weight for a spring or fall lightweight gown or promenade ensemble
(or dress, as the millennium suits you ;) Excellent for a fall tunic (or
suit jacket....) when there's just a bit of nip in the air.
Chocolate
$13.75/yd |
#1166
60" 100% wool
Melton Cloth. A beautiful, dense but flexible woolen that is perfect
for structured jackets.
And this just 'happens' to be the perfect color for a Civil War era
coat... Light Grey $19.85 |
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#1167
60" 100% wool
Melton Cloth. A beautiful, dense but flexible woolen that is perfect
for structured jackets.
And this just 'happens' to be the perfect color for a Civil War era
coat... Dark Grey $19.85
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there is a little sparkle in the threads that makes this unsuitable for authentic
kilt/renaissance use
#117
60" twill 99%worsted/1%nylon?
(was labeled 100% wool)
black/cream faux Menzies tartan
$9.00/yd
SALE $ 4.00/YD |
#1168
60" 100% wool
Melton Cloth. A beautiful, dense but flexible woolen that is perfect
for structured jackets.
And this just 'happens' to be the perfect color for a Civil War era
coat... Navy blue $19.85
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#1091
60" 100% twill woolen flannel suiting
a fine, soft, smooth finish in a pretty 'tweedy' look with very subdued
windowpane.
Grays with brown & blue 'panes'
$9.00/yd
about 6 yards left |
#1118
60" 100% wool crepe
A lovely hand and drape and a luscious rich color.
Wool crepe makes very nice suits that move with you and don't wrinkle
as much as other fabrics.
Burgundy
$9.95/yd
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#1093
61" 100% worsted wool suiting, very fine broken twill weave, with a slight shine
finish on the face. Gorgeous!
fine suiting.!
Dark Blue
$ 9.50/yd |
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#157
59" 100% wool twill with lush nap on one side
wool/camel hair blend
checked browns/black
$12.00/ydabout 2 1/2 yards left
$25.00 the piece |
#1144
61" 100% wool coating
VERY nice...This is a woven woolen that has been felted. (different from a
wool felt which isn't woven first)
A lovely Italian wool. Twilight Grey
$18.50/yd
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#1141
60" 100% woolen
A nice medium weight coating from Uruguay. Shrinkage rate when I did
the gentle, cold wash, hang dry, was about 3%. (insert disclaimer here :-)
Cranberry
$14.50/yd
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#179
60" 100% worsted wool sateen
a luscious suiting with browns and blue and other furtive colors woven
together.
browns with blue hint
$8.25/yd
about 2 1/2 yards left |
#1143
56" 100% woolen coating
A tabby weave that looks more coarse than the other woolens I got at the
same time. Interesting.
Black
$14.50/yd |
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#1173
60" 100% woolen
from Uruguay. A light-medium weight herringbone twill woolen.
Very nice drape and a flexible woolen. A lovely fabric with the herringbone
texture so subtle in 'Winter White' woolen.
I only got 10-12 yards of this....
$21.50/yd. |
#1096
58" 85% wool, 15% nylon coating,
soft, fluffy, lightweight twill with a wonderful thick nap surface.
Wonderful for a coat or a cape!
Feels great!
Beige
about 5% shrinkage
$9.00/yd |
#1147
36" 100% wool FELT
This is the wool that isn't woven.
This was used for hats but I can see it as the most wonderfully warm
insoles! Or a pair of mittens (the medieval thru early modern era fabric
type).
In fact, I'd better cut myself a half yard or so right now so when I get
'around toit' I'll have it !
mottled Grey
$17.00/yd |
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