About Class Act Fabrics
contact me at:
Class Act Fabrics
PO Box 307
email me at
Linda (at) classactfabrics (dot) com
Class Act Fabrics is going on sabbatical. I'm closing my shop and going back to school. Since its been some time (mumble-43-mumble years) since I was in school I'm going to need to study hard....no time for a fabric shop right now. I won't be handling corset stays anymore.
I want to get rid of all the stays. I don't want to sell one or two or even a dozen at a time....I don't have the spare brain cells to think of more than homework now.
So have I got a DEAL for YOU ;)
When I inventoried I used the last price list I had (6/2013) and found I have paid approximately $4338.14 for the stays and coil that I have. Retail would probably be around $8000.00. I do understand that shipping costs have skyrocketed.
I am asking for $500.00 so I can pay for the laptop I just had to buy. Does NOT include shipping. You can arrange to come pick them up. Or you can pay shipping and I'll also charge you to pack the suckers. I'd rather you come and get them because I don't want to repack the coil, however....if I do have to pack them and ship them it will have to be after homework, practicums, and thesis writing.
I've put the inventory on the price lists....I can't guarantee the exact amount to the single stay but most will have more than the amount stated.
Fabrics ...Corset stays..
Last price increase happened June 30,2013....
Mail costs will be increasing this year, too.
CORSET STAY / BONING CASING !!!!! also 1/2" boning by the yard...see below
If you are an historical costumer, living history reenactor or a renaissance garb maker, you will probably have had experience with trying to find the right thing to use as bones to stiffen your bodice or corset.
And if you do Great Dane ears, you will probably have had to search for the right thing to use as splints.
These corset stays, also called bones or steel boning,
are made in the US. They are steel coated with a hard white plastic. The ends are rounded
and dipped in another coating of white plastic. I also have the 1/2" wide steel
boning in 12 yard lengths....for steel hoops, hoop boning, hooping, whatever you
would like to call it.
Even if the corset stay ends are smooth and free from snags, the stays will work their way through the bottom or top of their pocket, or casing, if no extra space is allowed for movement.
This happens most often when a great stress or strain is put upon a corset or bodice. (Like mine.)
To prevent this "tear out", make the pocket or stay casing with an half inch of extra space at the end. The same applies to the steel hoops for your hoop skirt. In addition to the extra space you should also pad the cut hoop ends so they aren't sharp.
Uncoated steel bones will rust over time due to damp
air, sweat, washings, etc. Coated steel bones are more protected and won't
rust under normal wear. However, the coating can be chipped, scratched or otherwise
damaged and the exposed steel will rust. Another reason to cover the cut
ends of hoop boning.
If you find that a corset stay has been scratched or the bare steel for some reason is showing, use clear nail polish or something similar to coat the bare steel before any problem starts. This chip or scratch can happen in manufacturing, in shipping, or even in your own storing of the stays... "no biggy". Don't use a water-based paint to coat bare steel.
In period, the corset was worn on top of a shift or chemise which protected the corset from body oil and sweat so the corset usually needed only an 'airing' rather than a washing. If you want to be able to wash your corset or bodice, you will want to remove the corset stays. I recommend that you make the casing or pocket with one end open and put several stay stitches or "tacks" at that open end (allowing your 1/2" space) to hold the stays in place between washings. (of course, you'd pre-shrink all the fabric before you made your corset or bodice if it is to be washable.........
The historical times we recreate is where the old saying... "a stitch in time saves nine".... originated. Or the present day saying: "Proper prior planning prevents p**s poor performance."
WOVEN COTTON CASING.......
9/16" wide.....fits 1/4" flat and spiral stays.................................$ .75/yd.
NO LONGER SELLING INDIVIDUAL, DOZEN OR GROSS..... SELLING ALL.
INVENTORY TO FIND WEIGHT, figure on one pound for 12yards of 1/2"boning. Or 1lb for a dozen 1/2" wide x 12" long stays.... or 2 dozen 1/4" wide stays. That will be a hair more than 1 lb but close enough to estimate.
-------------6mm (1/4 inch approx. wide) ----------------------
Stays are white, plastic-coated, steel with dipped, rounded ends. All stays are .014mm thick
Columns show stay length and price
first column = length; second column = price each; third column = price 6; fourth column =INVENTORY IN STOCK
length in inches price each stay price for 6 stays INVENTORY column
|7 1/2"||.27||1.50||5 1/2GROSS|
|11 1/2"||.37||2.04||9 1/2GROSS|
|12 1/2"||.39||2.17||11 1/2GROSS|
Current price list for 1/2"wide stays
length in inches price each stay price for 6 stays INVENTORYcolumn
|7 1/2"||.44||2.42||1 1/2GROSS|
|11 1/2"||.62||3.41||6 1/3GROSS|
|13 1/2"||.71||3.90||3 1/2GROSS|
|14 1/2"||.76||4.18||4 3/4GROSS|
|15 1/2"||.80||4.40||1 2/3GROSS|
|18 "||.91||5.00||5 1/3GROSS|
PROBABLY AROUND 30+ YARDS OF 1/2" WHITEBONE COIL.
This is NOT the same as period crinoline hoop wire, which is two wires inside a flat non-waterproof casing.
Use a pair of tin snips (aviator shears are easier to handle) to cut this to the length you want,
file the cut edge to remove the sharp edges and corners, dip in a rubber
'tool grip' liquid, a non-water
base enamel, or a paint for metal to prevent rusting in damp situations or cover ends with tape. Then
when you make your hoop skirt, make the boning channels with an open end so you can remove
the hoop when your petticote needs washing.
You can also get plastic tubing that fits over the ends from a hardware store, cut a 2" piece of the tubing and stick both ends of the hoop boning into it. This keeps the circle shape of the hoop, keeps the ends from rubbing the fabric and makes it easy to "undo" to remove the steel so you can wash the fabric.
* Handy hint: to compactly store or carry your "hoops", let the hoops collapse on the floor, grab all the hoops on one side of the waist hole with one hand and all on the other side with your other hand and twist once so you have a figure "8". Then fold the top circle of the figure 8 over onto the bottom circle. If you have an old pillow case you can use that as a ready made storage bag.
I have discovered I must implement a handling charge increase. I'm sorry but I must do it to cover costs. If you'd like to pre-figure the handling, multiply the total cost of the stays, insurance and shipping by .0495 and add a dime. That will put you in the really close ballpark. The minimum handling charge will be 50 (fifty) cents. Maximum handling charge will be $3.50. This hasn't changed in 10 years.
I usually mail the stays priority class. If they are short enough, quite a lot of them will fit the flat cardboard priority mailer and that is only $5.60. If they are too long for that I usually mail them parcel post or priority, whichever they fit and is a better deal. Usually priority is cheaper or the same for 3 days faster.
You have the option of insurance (up to $50) for $1.95. I will add insurance unless you specifically tell me not to. It is not very much for the security it provides.
POSTAL RATES CHANGE YEARLY!! CHECK YOUR POST OFFICE FOR CURRENT RATES.
E-mail me if you have any questions: Linda(at)classactfabrics(dot)com .
updated August 16, 2014